by Scott Coates
Background
The Black Cuillin Ridge Traverse had been occupying a corner of my mind since we’d decided to go on holiday to the Isle of Skye in May 2025. It’s also one of those lifetime ‘ticks’ I’d wanted to do ever since hearing about it when I’d started climbing in my early 20’s.
I’d researched the route, bought the guidebook and asked friends if they’d done the full traverse in a day. No one had done it, either in a day or over the usual two day stint, the only advice I’d been given from a friend of a friend that had done a part traverse with their partner in a day, was take plenty of water (they’d had to bail early because they ran out of water), keep it light, the climbing isn’t that difficult but a rope would be handy for the abseils.
Further research online (mainly UKC) suggested that doing the ridge solo in a day was possible, but you would need to be very fit, comfortable soloing up to climbing grade Severe in very exposed positions and ideally have prior knowledge of the ridge.
Great, I thought, I only pass on one of those three criteria! I reckoned I would be fit enough having just come off the back of doing the Three Peaks race and training for this, but being comfortable soloing up to Difficult in exposed positions was a question mark, as I’d not been climbing regularly since taking up Fell Running around three years ago. I’d not even been to the indoor wall or the local crag, Almscliffe, in at least two years (ashamedly!). And truth be told, I wasn’t that into soloing even when I was climbing a lot, although I had climbed harder grades than Severe and would class myself as a competent climber.
On the third point, knowledge of the ridge, I knew I wouldn’t have time to build up the requisite knowledge it was suggested you would need for a Solo in a day attempt. Em & I were going on holiday to the Isle of Skye, I knew it wasn’t a running & climbing trip where I could spend every day on the ridge recceing sections. That wasn’t reasonable and nor would I want it to be.
So, I put away the idea of doing the ridge and got on with my life.
Picture: The Black Cuillin Range
That was until around two weeks before our trip. The weather was looking set to be near perfect and the dry weather this Spring had meant the route would be bone dry. I wasn’t 100% committed to doing it, but the stars were aligning, and I told myself (and Em), that I could at least have a look, and decide from there. So, I dusted off my climbing gear and packed it into our campervan ready for our journey North.
Our trip started with a stop off in the Lakes which gave me chance to recce Duddon Valley Fell Race – Long. I got back from doing a full recce of the course on Sunday and said to Em there was absolutely no chance I was doing the Cuillin ridge this coming week. I was massively dehydrated & had a bit of battle going up Caw, the last summit, and felt I’d be recovering for days! The Harvey maps race description says the last chance of water on the route is at the stream at Three Shires Stone. It wasn’t. Not this year anyway as it’d dried up! I’d run past the last chance of water about a half a mile before and I couldn’t be bothered turning back to re-fill my soft flask. Bad decision. This meant two hours in full sun with very little water. (Plenty of water in the stream on race day though!)
When we got to Glen Brittle campsite on the Monday I went for a short run and my legs felt surprisingly ok. Maybe it was the recovery dip in the river Duddon that did it! On Tuesday morning I went up to have a look at the ridge. I said to Em I would be out for no longer than 4 hours. This gave me chance to check out the approach, last water source before hitting the ridge and some of the ridge itself to see what the exposure was like and climbing/ scrambling sections. This went well, although I’d only managed a short section of the ridge from Caisteal a’ Garbh-choire to Sgurr Alasdair, skipping Sgurr Dubh Mor, the TD gap and then bailing out down the Great Stone Chute. I was back well within my 4-hour slot, early for a change, extra brownie points earned. My initial thoughts were bloody hell, that looks long and intimidating! No chance I’m doing that in a day.
But as with all these things, once you get going, the way becomes more obvious, and you get a feel for the route. The movement required to be fast & safe over the scrambling & climbing sections came back quickly. Constantly double checking for loose rocks, balancing & pushing rather than pulling hard etc. It’s like riding a bike, I thought. Once I was down and back at the campsite, it was back on!!
As you can probably tell by now, I’d committed to doing the ridge and then backed out numerous times. It was becoming tiresome, not just for me, but Em as well. I think she had become fed up with my procrastination and likely thought ‘Would you just get on with it?’.
There’s plenty of excuses you can make for not doing these types of things. I’ve not been climbing properly for years, I’m not fit enough, I don’t have enough experience of the route, I don’t want to have an accident & get injured, calling mountain rescue would be extremely embarrassing, someone on the UKC forums had said that their brother’s partner’s son’s best friend’s twice removed cousin had had a real epic on it etc, etc the list goes on and on.
Fundamentally the question I asked myself is the same question I asked when doing bold Trad routes back when I was climbing a lot or now, when taking on the Longer Fell Races & challenges. Why do you want to do it? Is the desire authentic? I.e. not because you think you should, or someone said you should do it or to collect Kudos from all 35 of my Strava followers. If the answer is yes, the desire is authentic, then crack on, prepare and bring the route within an acceptable level of risk.
For me, that meant skipping all the main climbing pitches which are the TD Gap, Inn Pinn, Kings Chimney and Naismiths route on the Bhastier tooth.
I decided I was going to do the ridge by the path of least resistance; I wasn’t bothered for following someone else’s made up rules or ‘purist’ line theory. I had no desire to make it any harder than it already is, and I wanted to bring the risk factor down to an acceptable level. This is all personal, of course, and there were still plenty of doubts.
Skipping those sections does extend the ridge and means more ascent & descent but I figured I was fit enough for that so that would be the best way.
Morning View of the Ridge from Glen Brittle Campsite
The Traverse
My alarm went off at 05:30 and I quietly tried to get up and out of the van whilst not waking Em. I quickly consumed a banana, raisins, a slice of dry bread and 750ml of water. I wanted something fairly light that would digest whilst I mummified my ankles and plantar fascia in KT tape. I knew my usual bowl of porridge would take too long to digest and weigh heavily on my stomach.
At 06:26 I was off. The weather that day was cooler than the previous few days. Ideal conditions. I stayed in a base layer, t-shirt and shorts all day. When I’d been up on the ridge on Tuesday it felt too warm for an ‘in a day’ effort, where water would become a real problem. The reason being is there isn’t anywhere to get water from on the ridge. You need to take what you need with you from the last water source, wherever that is depending on your chosen approach route.
Approach
The approach I chose was from Glen Brittle campsite, to Bealach a’ Garbh-choire, gain the ridge from here and then do an out & back of Section 1 from Caisteal a’ Garbh-choire to Gars-bheinn. This had the advantage of only having to take one 500ml soft flask of water along the approach run and being able to re-fill this and a further four 500ml soft flasks just below the ridge at the last water source. The disadvantage of this approach is that there’s additional height gain and it’s around 1km longer, on technical ground, than the other approach from Glen Brittle.
Section 1 – Caisteal a’ Garbh-choire to Gars-bheinn & Back
Once I hit the ridge I stashed my bag and tackled the first section super light with only my Compress Sport waist belt which contained 2 gels, one 500ml soft flask of plain water, topo guidebook, compass and mobile phone. This section flew by, a few tricky spots to negotiate navigationally but a lot of it was runnable. I arrived at Gars-bheinn at 08:30, lapped my watch, and reversed the way I’d just come. I also messaged Em to let her know I was at the start of the traverse proper. Throughout the day I would message her at the various summits letting her know where I was, so, should anything go wrong she’d have a rough idea of where I was. This is often something I do or at least, share the route I’m doing with her. Most of my running is done alone and accidents can happen. I once did a recce of Fairfield Horseshoe and embarrassingly came down in the wrong valley and ended up in Patterdale! Needless to say, navigation isn’t my strong point.
Gars-bheinn in the distance – the start of the ridge proper.
Section 2 – Caisteal a’ Garbh-choire to TD Gap
For this section I also took in the additional outlying Munro, Sgurr Dubh Mor, which was very enjoyable giving some good grade 2 scrambling. I did this Munro super light again as it’s an out and back from Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn, so I stashed my bag just below its summit. The route finding to Dubh-Mor was a little tricky, I checked the topo numerous times, a theme throughout the day which I’d factored in to the on-sight attempt as this does slow you down quite a lot.
Section 3 – TD Gap to Sgurr Thearlaich
I avoided the TD Gap abseil and climb by taking the bypass on the western side and ascending Sgurr Alasdair by its SW flank via some excellent grade 3 scrambling. I’d done this section on Tuesday so was able to get through it quickly. Once I hit the top of the Great Stone Chute it was all on-sight from here to the end. The summit of Sgurr Thearlaich was then reached via some more excellent grade 3 scrambling.
Grade 3 scrambling section ascending Sgurr Alasdair
Section 4 – Sgurr Thearlaich to Bealach Coire Lagan
This was going to be a taster of the Moderate grade downclimbing that would be required later in the day. There are two downclimbs at Moderate which are sometimes abseiled if wet. I got through these without any difficulties, the exposure wasn’t that great and by this point I knew I was moving well. I started to dream, this could actually happen, a complete traverse was well & truly on the cards. I avoided Kings chimney by taking Collies Ledge, this puts you in a ridiculous position high above Coire Lagan with a mega view of the Inn Pinn. I summitted Sgurr Mhic Chionnich, reversed this and made my way towards the Inn Pinn.
Collies Ledge. The Inn Pinn can be seen in the distance
Section 5 – Bealach Coire Lagan to Sgurr Dearg
I took the An Stac bypass at Grade 2 rather than the exposed grade 3 route. The grade 3 route is a popular scramble with guided parties, and I could see there was a few on this scramble. I didn’t want to have to try scramble past them and potentially create panic or arguments. Taking the grade 2 line seemed logical. I avoided the Inn Pinn. I didn’t have a harness or rope for the abseil and I had committed to not doing it prior to setting out. Again, it’s very popular and there was already a queue! Sod that, I could go to the White Rose centre if I wanted to queue. I overheard the inevitable arguments taking place as I ran past. ‘You’ll just have to wait’ came bellowing down from one party to another. Ah, tetchy climbers wired on anxiety, I don’t miss that.
View of Sgurr Alasdair & Sgurr Thearlaich with the Great Stone Chute between.
Section 6 – Sgurr Dearg to An Dorus
This long runnable section gave me chance to cover a lot of ground quickly. The route finding was a little perplexing at times in terms of trying to figure out the fastest line. Sometimes there’s a trod lower than the ridge itself, but this does a lot of descending and ascending. In the end I just decided to stick to ridge as best I could, at least this way I wouldn’t miss any summits, and I’d get chance to do some enjoyable rock hopping with great views on both sides of the ridge.
Somewhere along this section I ran past a guide who was short roping some clients. He asked whether I was attempting the ridge ‘in a day’ and when I said yes, he offered me his water. I obliged and refilled one of my soft flasks. This was very kind of him. Before I said yes, he did tell me they had stash of water higher up so I could take as much as I needed. Still, this was very generous and much appreciated.
On this section there was also some very enjoyable scrambling up to grade 3 and a 3m wall at Moderate to negotiate to get to An Dorus. This climbing section is quite exposed and required a bit more focus.
Section 7 – An Dorus to Bealach na Glaic Moire
I thought that this section would have the climbing crux of the day. Sgurr a’Mhadaidh’s third top is taken via slabs and corners at grade Moderate and the second top, a steep wall at grade Difficult, technically the hardest climbing section of the day. The slabs and corners for the ‘third top’ came and went fairly quickly and it all flowed, the route finding was fairly obvious, and the rock was good. The ‘second top’ pitch of Difficult was brilliant. This has steep ground for the grade with some airy exposed moves at the very top. Pulling on the holds with force couldn’t be avoided due to the steepness, so I did a lot of double-checking hand holds with a pull and a tap and footholds with a kick prior to committing.
Section 8 – Bealach na Glaic Moire to Bealach Harta
Prior to setting off I’d already decided to skip Bidein and take the North Flank Bypass due to there being two unavoidable abseils. The scrambling & climbing looked good on Bidein so it was a shame to skip it. The bypass takes a line to the North and below the craggy mass of Bidein itself, I was glad I had my helmet on for this section as rockfall seemed a possibility.
Bidein. The North Flank Bypass can be seen on the right.
Section 9 – Bealach Harta to Bealach nan Lice
There was some good scrambling over An Caisteal which lead to what I thought would be the mental crux of the day. The only abseil which cannot be avoided on the traverse (or at least it though it was!). This had to be down climbed. I’d been slightly concerned about this from the off, however it’s only Moderate and the guidebook says it looks harder than it is which I found to be true. I was very happy to get through this section with no issues and made my way over to Am Basteir on runnable ground very psyched!
Section 10 – Bealach nan Lice to Sgurr nan Gillean
I skipped the Bhastier Tooth and Am Basteir as this would’ve required climbing Naismiths Route at Severe. At this stage of the day and being on my own I couldn’t justify the risk of taking on Naismiths and, like the Inn Pinn, I’d already committed to not doing it before setting off. Instead, I took the Northern Bypass and headed for the final summit of the day, Sgurr nan Gillean and the end of the ridge proper.
I’d overlooked this section when doing my research thinking it was an easy summit tick, but in the end, this proved to be the crux of the day. To reach the West ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean required climbing a 20m Tooth Groove & Arete at Moderate. I’d not realised this until I was upon it, looking up at the route thinking ‘how have I missed this’! I double & triple checked the guidebook to see if there was another easier way, there wasn’t.
Although the climb isn’t technically hard, it’s very exposed and steep, especially at the top! The guidebook says ‘the base of a fallen gendarme (pillar) is passed by some airy moves to reach a large block at the top of Tooth Chimney’ that usually has an abseil sling’. I can confirm that it is very airy indeed, and passing the large block at the very top, with a huge fall potential below, was awkward and quite gripping! I was happy once I’d negotiated this section and made my way to the summit of the final peak via some nice grade 2 scrambling and a cool ‘window’ at the distinctive Pinnacle.
Descent
My happiness soon dissipated when I realised, at the summit of Sgurr nan Gillean, that I’d need to reverse the way I’d just come, including downclimbing the 20m Moderate route I’d just climbed, which is usually abseiled. Again, I was left kicking myself and wondering how I’d manged to overlook this final section! Everything had been going so well. Too well in fact.
I’d read somewhere years ago that 90% of all climbing accidents happen on the descent! This was now helpfully bouncing around in my mind along with ‘what a f idiot’.
So, I made my way down from the summit to the top of the climb, looked at the awkward fallen Gendarme (pillar) I’d need to negotiate and the huge fall potential, said a little prayer, and started the downclimb. My focus was intense and by the time I knew it I was at the base of climb well and truly psyched!
I started the descent from the ridge towards Sligachan and the Pub! I’d expected my legs to be fairly tired by this stage, but they were ok and I was able to run all the descent down to the Sligachan hotel where I met up with Em for a pint of Guiness and Fish & Chips!
The Descent – Sligachan in the distance
Strategy
⦁ Go light. I decided against taking a rope and harness seen as though I’d be avoiding the main abseils by taking alternative lines. There are some sections which are usually abseiled that cannot be avoided. But due to these being graded Moderate to down climb, and I knew they would be dry, I decided I’d be better down climbing them rather than taking the extra weight of a 35m rope, harness, Karabiner & belay plate. The first minor Moderate downclimbs came on section 4. If I couldn’t negotiate these at this stage, then I figured I was in no fit for position to do the ridge and would bail out down the Great Stone Chute.
⦁ I assumed I’d be out for around 12 hours, so we planned to suit this. Em would get to the Sligachan hotel for 16:30pm, around 10 hours after I set off, just in case I got there earlier than anticipated. I arrived at Sligachan hotel around 10 minutes before Em arrived.
⦁ If things didn’t go to plan, I would bail out at one of the many escape routes. This factor makes the ridge much less committing; there are numerous points along the ridge where you can bail out.
⦁ Don’t commit to any climbing moves you cannot down climb. For me, the golden rule of any soloing.
⦁ I aimed to consume at least 60g of carbs every hour. This can be a bit tricky as quite often you are scrambling and climbing for long sections, so it’s hard to free up a hand. I would say I got the fuelling and hydration just right. If I’d have been out any longer this would’ve become a problem as I’d used up all my food and water by the last summit and started to feel a bit depleted on the last kilometre of the run in to Sligachan. This may have been the adrenaline wearing off though.
Kit
Kit for the traverse
⦁ VJ Extrm 2 – IMO without doubt the best shoes for a summer traverse. They have a rock plate and anyone who owns a pair of VJ’s will know that they stick to rock like ‘s**t’. Especially Gabbro
⦁ Rab Veil 20l bag
⦁ Rab base layer
⦁ Montane wind stopper jacket
⦁ Inov-8 waterproof race jacket
⦁ Inov-8 waterproof race trousers
⦁ Lightweight beanie hat
⦁ Buff
⦁ Emergency blanket
⦁ Whistle
⦁ Compress sport waist belt
⦁ Vaga cap
⦁ Black Diamond climbing helmet
⦁ Sunglasses
⦁ Cicerone topo guidebook booklet
⦁ Compass – the rock is magnetic so a compass cannot always be trusted
⦁ Garmin forerunner watch
⦁ Coros arm HRM
⦁ Mobile phone
⦁ Black lightweight construction work gloves – highly recommend taking these, the Gabbro is so rough I wore through the tips of the gloves. You’d have sweaty wrinkley fingertips for days without them.
⦁ 5no 500ml soft flasks – 3 & a bit litres of water consumed over the day.
⦁ 3no PF 90 gels
⦁ 4no PF 30 gels
⦁ 4no Maurten 160 gels
⦁ Around 200g sweets
⦁ Around 200g trail mix, nuts & raisins.
⦁ Saltsicks
The Sligachan Hotel – 10 hours later.
Post Traverse Thoughts
It was one of those rare days where all the stars aligned. Perfect conditions, good fitness and I still, just about, have the head for doing these routes solo.
In all honesty though, I don’t think it’s as difficult or dangerous as it’s often made out to be. I had built it up in my mind to be a lot more dangerous & difficult that it was. That’s the beauty of doing things without a recce though. You never know how difficult it’s actually going to get or when you’re past the main difficulties.
Of course, If you were to take in all the main climbing pitches solo that would change the difficulty & seriousness quite a lot and personally, I would want to have done those sections previously before taking them on solo.
With that being said, you could also make it safer than what I did and take an abseil rope & harness for instance. There is no right or wrong way in my opinion, it’s just about going out and having adventure from Gars-bheinn to Sgurr nan Gillean.
What I do know is that whoever takes it on will have a brilliant experience.
Ridge Time from Gars-bheinn to Sgurr nan Gillean 7 hours 5 minutes.
Time from Glen Brittle Campsite to the Sligachan Hotel 10 hours 17 minutes.
